Replacing any internal hanging door is definitely an uphill task. Here is your guide along with expert tips to make the task easier for you. The actual task of door replacement is divided in easy and simple steps for your better understanding. The guidance provided over the topic in the following paragraphs of this post is supposed to make your task easier in every way possible.

Actually replacing a hanging door in a property involves a number of tasks which are relevant to each other. First let us take a stock of those tasks. It will make things easier for you in the long run.

• Replacing a hanging door to any property could mean you fit a new door to a few frame; alternatively it may also mean fitting in a new door to an existing frame.
• It also means fitting the hinges of the door.
• You also have to install a doorstop to the frame.

Your safety comes first and foremost

• While working you must wear the right protective gears – while you are sawing wear safety goggles and dust mask. The same goes while sanding or planning timbre.
• Without protective eye gears you should not drill into a timbre.
• It is better to wear ear plugs while making use of any power tool.
• While you are using a wood chisel, make sure the timbre is secure in a vice or workbench. You should always chisel away from your body and make sure your hands are behind the cutting edge of the tool.

The right tactic to measure for a replacement door

If the existing hanging door which you want to replace is still there, then you should take the measurements which include the length, breadth and the width. Professionals, having years of experience in front door replacement in London, suggest since you are not a professional it is better to write down the measurements in a notebook for fast reference.

Refer to the range and select a door the matches closely to the measurements you have taken. If you need rounding the figures, you should always round up and not down. Suppose the measurement is like this – l´b´h = 1978 mm ´ 756 mm ´ 42 mm. you should better round it up as – 1980 mm ´ 800 mm ´ 44 mm.

On the other hand suppose you have only a frame and no door fitted to it, in that case you measure the height and the width of the inner side of the frame. It is important to remember that the height is measured at two points (left and right) whereas the width is measured at three points, namely top, middle and bottom. To determine the exact size of door which you needs you have to consider the largest of both sizes and round those figures up.

The common terms and terminologies

If you are a newbie in the world of DIY then it is important for you. Master the common terms and terminologies that are frequently use. This will be helpful in understanding the instructions. It will also make following through with greater ease. I suggest consulting professionals with experience in garage door installations.

Here is a glossary below to make things easier for you-

Architrave

It is a type of moulding which covers the joint between the frame and your wall.

Hinge barrel

This is the cylindrical part of the hinge which actually allows it to pivot.

Flush door

It is a door with smooth surfaces, much opposed to panels.

Glazed door

A door, with panels made from glass.

Moulded door

This is a door with detailing, like built in panels.

Door stop

The doorstop is meant to stop the door from being knocked from its hinges and is fitted around the frame.

Lintel

A rigid beam which is set in the wall over the door. It is meant to support the structure above the opening.

Metered corner

This is typically a joint which you can make by cutting the end of the 2 pieces of wood at a 45 degree angle and then fitted together to make a perfect 90 degree corner.

Striker plate

It is the metal plate into which the tongue of the latch fits in. The striker plate is secured to the stile.

Soffit casing

The term refers to the protruding section which runs atop of the door frame.

Spindle

It is the length of the metal rod which connects the 2 door handles on either side of the door.

Tubular latch

It is a simple latch which you can use where the lock is needed. Fitting it is easy and requires minimal drilling and cutting.

Hingebound

A door will not open easily because the hinge recess is too deep.

Stiles

This is the vertical or upright side of the frame of a door. It is relevant to mention that the top and bottom are called rails.

Fitting a new hanging door to an existing frame

There are many old houses in the UK that do not have doors of any standard size. When replacing such doors, you may need to trim the replacement door or order a specially ordered one. If it is a flush door then you should not cut off more than 10 mm from each side edge suggest front door fitters in London who have years of experience in the trade.

On the other hand if it is a panel door then the cut off should not be more than 5 mm. otherwise in both cases you end up weakening the structure they suggest. The existing door frame may not be straight and you should better get new hinges from the market before setting your hands on the task. Old and existing hinges are only reusable only if they are in sound condition. The new hinges should be of the same size as the existing ones.

The tools you require for hanging door

Now let us take a stock of the tools you need to carry out the task smoothly. The tools that you need to include are –

• HSS drill bit
• Wooden wedges
• Sharp pencil
• Wood plane (hand or power)
• Tape measure
• 25 mm (1 inch) Chisel
• Hammer or wooden mallet
• Hard point hand saw
• Screws
• Drill (either wired or cordless)
• Workbench
• Internal door
• 2-3 door hinges of appropriate size

Professionally trained experts working at the Glazing Works London suggest the following steps to get the work complete.

• Step 1 – Measuring the door size
• Step 2 – Cutting the door down with utmost care to size
• Step 3 – Measuring the hinge positions and
• Step 4 – Fitting the hinges

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